There’s been a lot going on in our corner of the universe. Couture Week, impeachment, the Iowa Caucuses today, and Fashion Month is just around the corner. So today, let’s direct our attention to a few of – in my opinion – the best Pre-Fall 2020 collections that have been trickling in over the past few weeks. These collections, often for reasons similar to those aforementioned, tend to get lost in the scuffle, which is a shame. Yes, they may lack the magnetism of a runway show, but nonetheless there is a lot of good fashion happening here.
Here’s a shortlist of lines that have caught my eye – each one is linked to the full collection at Vogue Runway.
Balmain
Aggressive cuts in lush fabrics, balancing tradition (e.g., the house’s archival paisley) with innovation (sustainable sourcing, for example): this collection is – like so much of Olivier Rousteing’s work for the house – is for the warm-blooded maximalist.
Givenchy
Clare Waight Keller may have released this collection in December, but it deserves a place on the list. The collection is full of practical and elegant pieces, many designed to wear in more than one way (a dress forwards and backwards, for example). Keller accomplishes this using more sustainable fabrics and without sacrificing her signature architectural savvy.
Louis Vuitton
I admit it: I am totally entranced by Nicolas Ghesquière’s 1980’s supermarket thriller-inspired presentation. And yes, while the gaudiness of the neon, grainy book covers, designed especially for this collection, can often overshadow the clothes, it does send a message that geekiness is always “in,” as long as it comes from the heart. I’ll stand behind that any day.
Sacai
No one can blend opposites like Chitose Abe: seamless, practical, thought-provoking, and totally irresistible.
Stella Jean
What happens when an Armani protégé plays with her Haitian and Italian roots? Gorgeous, fun, thoughtful, and infinitely wearable clothes. I loved this collection, even though Vogue’s Tiziana Cardini gave valid criticisms (in the link above), because I can so easily see women in my life wearing these clothes, and joyfully so.
MSGM
Massimo Giorgetti produced a pared-down, more elemental collection than the usual punchy, logo-filled streetwear offerings (which I love) – but it was no less bold than we’d expect. A zingy color palette and incredible textures made this batch one to drool over.
Versace
Only Donatella could create a rose pattern that didn’t look dowdy AF – in fact, it looks a little dangerous. There’s always a little venom in her work, which is one of the (many) reasons I love this house so much. Her pre-fall 2020 creations toe the line between the brand’s trademark sauciness and the reality that many people – even those monied enough to be buying Versace – have to wear safe-for-work attire. She somehow found a sweet spot between decadence and practicality, and I can never get enough.
What were your picks?
love,
Stig
