One of the joys of blogging about fashion is the discovery of new designers – or at least ones that are new to me. Each designer represents a different worldview, and they invite us to slip in and out of their universe every time we choose to wear one of their designs. One of my recent discoveries is Jonathan Simkhai, an LA-based designer.
I should preface this by saying that one of my goals has been to stretch my comfort zone, not only in fashion, but in life in general. That’s why this blog exists in the first place! But with clothing, a way I challenge myself is to monitor my reactions when I look at a piece on the hanger. If I get a visceral, negative, gut reaction that says “WTF is this thing?” I immediately put it in my “try-on” pile. That’s what happened with last week’s Fila skirt look, and that’s also how I discovered my love for Jonathan Simkhai.
I had seen his work online from various fashion weeks, and especially loved his latest collection. So when I saw this dress on the hanger, with its poofs and ruffles and buttons and just so much going on, I was surprised when I looked at the label and saw who it was. This designer-god designed what can only be described as a prairie-girl prom dress?!? This is terrible! Ergo: Must. Try. On.
So I did. And the ladies in the fitting room lost their sh*t. They loved it. There were twirls and applause and o-m-ggggggs.
But Why?
That reaction surprised me. I mean, let’s break this down: a cotton dress with old-school barber sleeves, a square neckline, button bodice with lace inlay, a mullet hem, and ruffles? But … why? Why did the dressing room cheerleaders like it so much?
First of all, it fits correctly – and with clothes, that’s 90% of the battle.
Secondly, and most interestingly, this dress is saying something NEW. Yes, it draws on themes from the 1980s (and my sister argued, the 1880s), but it all combines into something powerfully fresh.
So what’s new about this?
What’s new about this piece and Simkhai as a whole? It’s all about context.
Simkhai started out designing for his girlfriends, who would go to his apartment to steal his clothes for nights out on the town. From those experiences, it seems to me that he really understood that women don’t dress for the male gaze. We dress primarily for ourselves, then for other women, and maybe waaaaay down the list between dressing for your dog and dressing to watch Oprah reruns on the sofa is the male opinion. If guys like what we wear, then great! That’s lovely. But if they don’t, no big deal.
He also understands that women are drawn to clothing that makes us feel good in our bodies. Of course, for each person that is going to manifest in a different way. Some folks love an oversized t shirt and Tevas, others a slipdress. It’s allllllllll ok.
For his slice of womanity, he designs clothes that are contoured to a female form – similar to how Italian design tends to embrace anything round on a woman’s body. And THAT speaks to me, and I think to a good portion of women today who are pushing the idea that modern day feminism includes developing your identity INDEPENDENT of how you think others will perceive you.
That means you can wear a can-can skirt with poofy sleeves and a fitted waist if that’s what feels good on your body. Rodrigo, for one, was horrified at this dress – and that’s OK. What he cares about most is my happiness, not my visual appeal.
And yes, Simkhai is a dude – but that doesn’t mean that he can’t design relevant clothing for forward-thinking women. In fact, he’s a great example of how feminist design – and feminism itself – is supported by any person who cares to listen to women’s experiences. He started out designing long-johns for his female friends because they asked him to – they wanted cute bottoms to wear with their stilettos. And he listened!
Where to Find His Line and Similar (More Affordable) Brands
Jonathan Simkhai is a fancypants brand, and as such can be found at fancypants retailers like Neiman Marcus, MyTheresa, Intermix, and his own website.
As I look through his current collections, I see pieces that balance shape, function, and fun, and that’s everything I’m drawn to in clothing. In looking for similar, more affordable brands as alternatives to Simkhai, I’d say your best options are Privacy Please, Wilfred, and Reformation (which also happens to be sustainable). None of these brands are truly inexpensive, so if you have one in mind, let me know and I’ll update this post!
I hope you have a great week!
love
Stig
